Appliances — what we actually test

Every included appliance (as defined in the purchase agreement) is turned on and cycled during the inspection. We do not load-test, stress-test, or run full cycles, but we verify that each appliance powers up, operates in its basic modes, and has no obvious leaks, odd noises, or fault codes.

• Range / cooktop: every burner lit; oven set to 350°F and heated to verify temperature via infrared thermometer.
• Oven / microwave: heating test with a cup of water; fan and light function.
• Dishwasher: brief cycle start; check for leaks, proper high-loop drain connection, air gap if present.
• Refrigerator: interior temperature check (should be ≤40°F fresh / ≤0°F freezer); ice maker tested if accessible.
• Garbage disposal: run, check for leaks and grinding.
• Range hood: fan operation, light function, and ducting (vented to exterior is best; recirculating is common but noted).

Kitchen electrical — GFCI is required

All countertop outlets within 6 feet of a sink require GFCI protection. We test each one with a GFCI tester and report any failures. Common finds:

• 1980s kitchens with no GFCI protection at all — upgrade recommended
• GFCI reset tripping and not resetting (failed receptacle)
• Under-counter dedicated circuits for disposal and dishwasher — verify proper wiring
• Microwave on a shared circuit with other appliances — tripping risk

Plumbing under the sink

The under-sink area is one of the most common leak sources. We check:

• Supply shutoffs — function and corrosion
• P-trap and drain connections — leaks, slime, improper slope
• Disposal connection and dishwasher drain loop
• Water softener or filter installations — proper installation, no dripping
• Evidence of past leaks — swollen cabinet bottom, mold, water staining

Ventilation and ducting

A proper range hood vents to the exterior, ideally through a smooth-wall metal duct. Recirculating hoods (the filter-and-blow-back-into-the-room type) are common in older kitchens but remove very little moisture and grease. In Shakopee and south-metro tract homes we often find exterior-vented hoods where the damper is stuck or the vent termination is painted shut — the fan runs but air goes nowhere.