Foundation types in south-metro homes

• Poured concrete (1960s–today): most common in modern Shakopee, Savage, and Prior Lake subdivisions. Durable; fails primarily at cold joints and tie rods.
• Concrete block (CMU) (1950s–1990s): common in mid-century Minnesota homes. More susceptible to lateral-pressure cracking and mortar-joint failure than poured concrete.
• Stone and rubble (pre-1940): rare in south metro, more common in older Shakopee and Chaska homes. Assessed differently — some cracking and settlement is expected.
• ICF (insulated concrete form) (2000s–today): premium new construction. Very durable; failure modes involve the EPS insulation layer more than the concrete core.
• Preserved-wood foundation (PWF) (1970s–1990s): pressure-treated lumber foundations. Uncommon but present. We inspect for proper drainage, water infiltration, and decay at the sill.

What we look for on every foundation

• Cracks: size, direction, and pattern are what matter. Vertical hairline cracks are usually cosmetic shrinkage. Horizontal cracks, step-cracks in block walls, and any crack wider than 1/4" get escalated. Diagonal cracks from corners often indicate settlement.
• Bulging or bowing: visible inward deflection of a block wall is a serious sign of lateral pressure failure — call a structural engineer.
• Parging condition: parging is the thin cement coat applied to the exposed portion of the foundation. Failed parging lets moisture into the block or concrete behind it. Common finding in 1970s–1990s homes.
• Efflorescence: white chalky deposits on the exterior face indicate past water movement. Usually not structural but worth documenting.
• Rust staining: from embedded rebar or tie rods. Advanced corrosion can spall the concrete.
• Tie-rod holes in poured walls: should be sealed with hydraulic cement; open holes can leak.
• Settlement and uneven foundation heights: measured with a level where accessible; significant differential settlement is a structural concern.

Where the exterior foundation meets the rest of the house

• Sill plate: the horizontal wood member that sits on top of the foundation. Checked for termite damage, moisture, and anchor-bolt presence (code requires anchor bolts every 6 feet).
• Rim joist: the band of wood at the top of the foundation. Common rot location in Minnesota if flashing is missing or grade is too high.
• Brick veneer shelf angle: in brick homes, the steel shelf angle that supports the veneer. Rust here can push the brick outward — a serious repair.
• Grade-to-foundation interface: siding should stop at least 6 inches above finished grade and 2 inches above hard surfaces. Burying the foundation wall makes inspection impossible and creates a hidden entry point for water and termites.

We pair the exterior inspection with the interior basement inspection — issues visible from outside often correlate with evidence (stains, cracks, efflorescence) visible from inside. The full picture is what gives you confidence in the foundation's condition.